Disclaimer: This article is based on my research from various sources, including published historical articles and documentaries. I have compiled this in a succinct format to create an easy read for you to learn something new about the history of different cultures.
Exploring the Scottish Tartan
In truth, I have lacked a bit of inspiration as of late. Not because I don't have ideas but because putting them down into words seemed harder than usual. Sometimes it takes picking up a new book to inspire a little writing.
Clanlands was the book for me, written by Outlander stars Sam Heughan and Graham McTavish. As Scottish-born patriots, they were determined to explore their homeland. From its history to its whiskey to its infamous battles that seemed to dominate the highland life, they explore the land, ensuring to ridicule each other along the way. As they unearthed Scotland's ineffable charm, I was inspired to explore the clans and tartans of Scotland, inherently identifiable to my mother's birthplace.
The Tartan Word
Another frequently used term, particularly in America, is 'plaid.' When we hear this word, we immediately conjure images of vibrant, patterned fabric. However, the term 'tartan' has its origins in old Spanish, originally denoting a type of cloth, irrespective of the pattern.
After the Jacobite era, when many Scots immigrated to North America, the term transformed. They would refer to their attire as 'tartan,' yet many locals interpreted it as describing the pattern rather than the garment itself. Consequently, 'tartan' became more commonly understood as 'plaid' in North America.
How Old is Tartan?
Tartan has a history spanning almost 3000 years. While we've long recognised Scotland's rich traditions, perhaps we've underestimated the extent to which these traditions have influenced cultures around the globe. Evidence of tartan's ancient origins extends far beyond Scotland's borders. Mummies believed to date back to approximately 1500 B.C. have been discovered in Urumchi, located in the Xinjiang region of Western China. Among the treasures unearthed were some of the oldest known pieces of tartan. These woolen plaids exhibited striking similarities in weight, texture, and thickness to traditional Scottish tartans. This discovery sheds light on the extensive travels of the Celts, particularly the Scots, who left their mark in distant lands. It stands as compelling evidence that the art of weaving tartans has been practiced for countless generations.
Before the Battle of Culloden
Tartans are commonly linked with renowned Scottish clans, often regarded as emblematic colours and patterns claimed by specific families throughout history. While this notion carries a romantic allure, its historical accuracy is less certain. The concept of family tartans is not as ancient as the tradition of tartan itself.
In the Scottish clan system, specific colors were not universally assigned to clans; instead, tartans were dyed using natural substances such as bark, berries, and plants, resulting in earthy tones. While purple symbolized royalty in many cultures, Highlanders associated red with wealth, as it was a rare and costly dye. Incorporating red into tartans served as a conspicuous display of affluence, frequently showcased in portraits of clan chiefs. It's important to note that while kilts were prevalent in the Highlands of Scotland, they were not as popular in the lowlands.
In 1715, a form of categorization emerged, but its purpose was not to identify tribes or families. Instead, it was used to organize Highlanders into military regiments by the British Army, essentially serving as a form of uniform. One notable example is the adoption of the famous Black Watch tartan by an infantry unit born in the aftermath of the First Jacobite Rebellion of 1715,
It wasn't until 80 years later that tartan began to be widely associated with familial representation and Scottish identity.
After the Battle of Culloden
Following the Battle of Culloden, a topic of debate has been whether tartan was truly banned under the Dress Act. In the aftermath of their victory over Scotland, the British forces were keen to quell any remaining rebellious sentiment. Among the measures taken were the three Disarming Acts, instituted in 1747. However, according to tartan historian Peter Elsea MacDonald, the notion of a blanket ban on tartan is widely misunderstood.
"no Man or Boy, within that part of Great Britain called Scotland, … shall, on any pretense whatsoever wear or put on the Clothes commonly called Highland Clothes..."
The Dress Act of 1745
The specific language of the act sheds light on its true scope: "No Tartan or party-coloured Plaid or Stuff shall be used for Great Coats, or for Upper Coats." This indicates a restriction on the use of tartan specifically in certain types of outerwear, rather than a complete prohibition on its use altogether. Additionally, the act's focus solely on boys and men implies that women remained unaffected by its provisions.
In essence, the legislation targeted the military attire of Scottish men, prohibiting them from wearing their traditional garb as part of their uniforms. However, it did not outlaw tartan entirely from civilian use.
It's worth noting that this ban was lifted in 1782, allowing Highlanders to proudly don their traditional clothing once more. However, the resurgence of tartan fashion in the Lowlands would take some time to catch on.
A Royal Visit in 1822
In 1822, after the turbulence of the Jacobite era, the Scottish Highlands were in the midst of a cultural revival, endeavoring to resurrect ancient customs and traditions. This period witnessed a significant milestone as the royal family embarked on their first visit to Scotland in 162 years, with King George IV's historic journey to Edinburgh. It marked a pivotal moment in Scottish history, symbolizing the restoration of a connection between the monarchy and the Scottish people.
During the preceding years, around 1810, there emerged a notable trend: the development of tartans associated with specific family names. This innovation arose amidst a landscape where many traditional Scottish practices had waned, prompting the emergence of fresh customs. However, according to tartan historian Peter MacDonald, it was the royal visit of 1822 that truly catalyzed the popularization of the concept of clan tartans.
The presence of King George IV in Scotland served as a catalyst, sparking a renewed interest in Scottish heritage and identity. His participation in Highland pageantry, adorned in tartan attire, captured the imagination of the populace and solidified tartan as a symbol of Scottish pride and lineage. Thus, the royal visit of 1822 stands as a defining moment, not only in the history of Scotland but also in the resurgence of its cultural traditions.
Sir Walter Scott's romanticized novels ignited a passion for Scottish history and culture, particularly during the Jacobite era. When news of the royal visit reached Scotland in 1822, Scott urged the populace to embrace their "true clan tartans," sparking a frenzy of creativity as people designed their own interpretations. Even lowland clan chiefs, previously distant from Highland traditions, joined in, donning kilts adorned with patterns representing their clans. This marked a significant shift, facilitated by Scott's efforts to bridge cultural divides.
The groundwork for this resurgence had been laid earlier by the Highland Society of London, which began collecting clan tartans in 1816. Scott's push for unity, coupled with this archive, solidified the clan tartan as a central piece of Scottish identity.
The origins of clans and tartans of Scotland are deeply intertwined with both historical upheaval and cultural revival. Emerging from the aftermath of the Jacobite era, where traditions faced suppression. Today, clan tartans stand as enduring symbols of pride and connection, weaving together the diverse threads of Scotland's rich culture.
Comentários